Rabat – Before the founding of Israel in 1948, Morocco was home to the largest Jewish population in the Arabic-speaking world. More than 350,000 Moroccan Jews lived in nearly 100 communities throughout the North African kingdom until the Israel-Palestine conflict erupted in the Middle East. Today, mere hundreds remain.
But with a native Jewish population dating back to 70 AD and dozens of archaic religious sites, Morocco remains a pilgrimage site for Jews today. Jewish pilgrims notably frequent historical sites in Fez that preserve the legacy of Morocco’s Jewish community.
One such site in Morocco’s spiritual capital is the white-washed Jewish cemetery, sprawling over the edge of the old city and overlooking rolling hills.
The above-ground graves and tombs—of which there are hundreds—were repainted in 2019. The fresh coat of white paint restored the site to its original splendor while making the cemetery nearly blinding on a sunny day.
Read also: Morocco’s Chief Rabbi Praises Mutual Respect Between Jews, Monarchy
The cemetery is home to the tomb of Solica, one of the most famous female saints among Jews as well as Muslims in Morocco.
Also known as Sol Hachuel and Lalla Suleika, Solica was born in Tangier in 1817. The young Jewish woman was known far and wide for her beauty, and, according to legend, the governor of Tangier attempted to persuade her to convert to Islam.
She refused, and he imprisoned and tortured her. The governor transferred her to Fez, where local officials beheaded her in 1834 when she was only 17. She is venerated today by Jews and Muslims alike for her steadfastness and purported healing powers.
The cemetery also houses the tombs of several chief rabbis of Morocco.
One tomb belongs to Rabbi Yehuda Ben Attar, born in 1655.
According to legend, the sultan of Morocco imprisoned the rabbi to raise ransom money from the poverty-stricken Jewish community. After receiving no funds, the sultan threw the rabbi to his lions. The rabbi began to pray, and the lions sat quietly in a row as if they were his students. The miracle earned the rabbi his freedom and an apology from the sultan.
Read also: Rabbi Says Morocco Is the ‘Kingdom of Grace’ for Jewish Community
A small museum and woodworking shop sits along the northeastern border of the cemetery, maintained by the site’s caretaker, Edmond Gabay.
With beautifully tiled Moroccan fountains, date palms, and orange trees strewn throughout the cemetery, the site is reminiscent of heavenly gardens. Old apartment buildings stand tall at the cemetery’s edge, enclosing the space in a quiet calm.
Although Morocco’s Jewish population continues to dwindle, beautifully preserved sites like the Jewish cemetery of Fez remind us of the far-reaching legacy of this significant Moroccan community.
Read also: 10 Good Reasons to Visit Morocco
